Work Kiwami 5x 18x9. BlobeyeSTi 3 Hours Ago. Perrin Performance - Boost Gauge install.
IGOTASTi - Perrin Performance - Boost Gauge install
Perrin Performance Gauges It was really exciting to find out that Perrin Performance released their new line of gauges. As much as I love my Access Port, the digital gauge options on there just weren't doing it for me. Of course I got all six of them, but I chose to start with boost gauge because… well, because turbo.
I was impressed with the gauge before I even got it out of the box. The packaging is attractive and the information on the outside of the box is more than enough to quickly educate you about the gauge. Each Perrin gauge comes with a 60mm pod, which I thought was really cool.
Though my long term plans include a pillar pod and triple dash pod, having the ability to temporarily set up the gauge with the included pod was really nice. The base for the pod has several sections that are made to be cut or broken away, allowing you to choose the size of the base. Yet another really cool, but simple feature provided by Perrin. I have seen several types of gauges that require you to run individual power and ground for each gauge.
I found the instructions provided by Perrin to be very informative, but we really only used them to view the wiring diagram. There are a few important bullet points in there so I highly suggest you review the instructions. Boost Gauge In The Box: Soldering iron Electrical tape Clippers or equivalent capable of cutting vacuum hose Wire stripper Small zip ties for vacuum hose Zip ties Installation: For my purpose, I am temporarily mounting it to the left of my gauge cluster.
I chose to use the line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold as suggested in the instructions from Perrin. As the instructions suggest, I made sure that the sensor pointed down before I zip tied it in place. Note that the sweep of the needle is important for viewing accuracy - the greater the sweep, the more likely you'll make a correct reading.
Another important factor is the diameter of the gauge - the most common diameter is 52mm, but smaller 40mm units can also be bought. Unless mounting space is an issue which you'll need to determine before making a purchase we'd opt for the larger size gauge, as they're considerably easier to read. And what's better - a metric or imperial boost gauge? This comes down mainly to personal preference. Psi pounds per square inch , kilopascals kPa and Bar are the most common pressure units - whichever of these suits you is fine. Your budget will determine whether you'll be using a mechanical or, possibly, an electronic boost gauge.
Electronic boost gauges, however, can run to several hundred dollars. As the name implies, an electronic boost gauge is fed an electrical signal from a remote pressure sensor. Electronic boost gauges have a few advantages - they generally have slightly better accuracy, most have a peak recall function and, because the gauge is fed an electric signal from a remote pressure sensor, there's no requirement to run an air hose into the cabin.
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The best spot to connect a boost gauge is the intake manifold; most typically by 'T-ing' into one of the existing manifold hoses. So why is the intake manifold best, you ask? Only boost pressure can be measured along the path between the turbocharger and throttle body. The second advantage of connecting the boost gauge to the intake manifold is you'll receive a more accurate representation of actual boost - the amount of positive pressure received by the engine.
Connecting a boost gauge anywhere between the turbo compressor and throttle will give a too-high boost reading.
Boost Gauge Install on Subaru STi/WRX 08-13:
Thanks to the inevitable restriction through the intercooler core, intercooler plumbing and throttle body, an engine suffers a boost pressure loss on-route to the manifold. Using a Subaru Impreza WRX as a demo, we T'd our boost gauge a second-hand Japanese import job into one of the hose connections on the topside of the manifold. The hose we selected was one that connects to the purge control solenoid on the underside of the manifold.
Note that - instead of cutting the factory solenoid hose - we fitted a T-piece to the existing end and added another short length of hose to hook onto the manifold connection. This means, if we later decide to remove the boost gauge, the original hose will be long enough to reattach to the manifold connection. The third port of the T-piece is dedicated to the boost gauge. And what sort of T-pieces should be used? Brass fittings are certainly the most durable but for a completely stealth installation you can't go past the plastic T-pieces used on cc Daihatsu Charade carby turbo engines.
We're led to believe that the same T-pieces are fitted to atmo versions as well. These beaut little T-pieces can be picked up from the wreckers for free! To ensure none of your boost gauge hoses pop apart, the vacuum hose clamps used on the Daihatsu Charade Turbo are, again, ideal and available for free. We didn't bother with these since we don't expect to run mega boost. Vacuum hose offers OE-level durability and it integrates into the underbonnet scenery perfectly. There are a couple of things to remember when routing the hose from the manifold to the in-cabin gauge. The hose should not be kinked, it should be kept well away from intense heat sources and it should not foul the operation of any moving parts - particularly the throttle!
We routed our boost gauge hose around the factory blow-off valve tube, beneath the top-mount intercooler, parallel with some factory tubes that run along the firewall and, finally, though the firewall.
A couple of cable ties were used to secure the hose into position. Most cars have several firewall openings that are capped with a rubber or plastic seal; we'll use one of these to pass through our boost hose.
Subaru Boost Gauge
Next, enlarge the hole in the seal so it's big enough to accept the 4mm rubber hose - this can be done with a pair of pointed scissors or a razor. With that done, refit the seal to the firewall and poke the boost hose through to the cabin. Note - in no circumstance should a hose, cable or electrical wire rub against the metal edge of the firewall hole. Install a firewall seal from another vehicle or use a sheath even just a short length of rubber hose to avoid contact with that sharp metal edge.
Working from the driver's foot well, route the hose beneath the dashboard so it won't foul the operation of the pedals, steering, handbrake or any other controls. Again, use cable ties to secure the hose at various locations to prevent it falling somewhere it shouldn't - like on your feet while driving! Cut the hose in the vicinity where you intend to mount the gauge. Most boost gauges incorporate a bulb for nighttime illumination. Two electrical terminals can usually be found on the back of the gauge - one for a positive electrical feed and one for Earth.
Note that - unless LEDs are used for illumination rather than a conventional bulb - you can hook either terminal to the positive or Earth wire.
A conventional bulb is not polarity conscious. So where should you wire the illumination bulb to? Well, the best place is to connect into the existing instrument illumination circuit - this enables the boost gauge to illuminate along with the rest of the vehicle's instruments.
In the case of this particular install, we powered the boost gauge bulb from the illumination circuit for the cigarette lighter which is immediately alongside. We simply T'd into the two wires that are used to illuminate the cigarette lighter surround and ran the appropriate length of hook-up wire to the ashtray area. To enable easy installation and future removal, we soldered two short lengths of wire onto the gauge terminals and adjoined the ends with a pair of spade connectors.
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